Wednesday, March 6, 2013

The Solo Train Ride To Dali


     The winter in Baoji is long, cold, and grey every day. The pollution is worse this time of year and I was really looking forward to getting out of town for a while.  A beautiful blue sky and bright sunshine was on the menu and breathing some fresh air was high on the list of priorities.

     I had been warned about train travel in China as being complicated, crowded, and overwhelming and because of this misinformation; I was terrified to make the trip alone. A friend who was supposed to travel with me came down with severe stomach flu and could not make it, but I was determined to make the trip and decided to venture out on my own.
    
     After hours of research on the internet, I learned that Dali has many hostels and there were several owned by foreigners who speak English. Oh, how I longed for a good conversation with someone that I could understand completely. The hostel I decided on was the Lily Pad Inn, they had a private room with a shared bath, but it would have to do as it was the high travel season and accommodations were limited so I packed my bags and headed to the train station.
    
      The train station was not crowded and I arrived very early just to make sure I could get used to the new surroundings and be clear about where I was supposed to go. It reminded me of the airport in Myrtle Beach, not as nice of course, but small and organized. Grudgingly, an attendant and his supervisor carried my bag up a mountain of stairs and found me a place to sit. As time passed, more people arrived and a few came by to display their version of the English language to me.
     
     Finally, the train arrived, it was easy to read the train ticket and get on the right train. It was late at night and everyone was asleep so I found my bunk crawled up to it (the upper bunk is the smallest) and went to sleep.  The next day, I met a wonderful warm Muslim family who occupied the bunks underneath me, the wife had a little knowledge of English and between the two of us, we were able to put our two languages together and communicate enough to have pleasant conversation.  She had made some homemade bread and insisted on sharing. She also had an endless supply of fruit to eat and included me in all of the the family meals. They were a wonderful family and today as I write this, I miss their warmth and hospitality.

     I arrived in Guangtong around eight in the morning and caught a bus to Dali, which was around four hours away. The bus driver was a wild man and whipped around the corners and over the mountains in record time. The girl who sat next to me on the bus threw up because of so much motion, but personally, I loved the ride as I sensed that the driver was a professional who makes the trip back and forth over the mountain many times in a day.

     When we reached our final destination, I was met by a warm sunny day with blue skies and fresh air. A nice man with a motorcycle buggy drove me to the Lily Pad Inn. The ride was long and rough as I could feel every bump in the road. Reaching the Inn was a welcome sight and even though I was exhausted, I took a quick shower and went out to explore the town.

     Train travel in China was not as bad as I expected although I believe that the kind of trip you have depends on the friendliness of your travel partners. I was lucky enough to have met one of the nicest families in the world on that train and because of that family, my journey to Dali was a great experience that I will never forget. 

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